Case Studies – Cosmetics, Personal Care and Haircare Products

International Speciality Products, now owned by Ashland, was a leading global supplier of specialty chemicals and performance enhancing products for consumer and industrial markets.

The challenge

Skin tightening claims are becoming more overt on product packaging, and are increasingly supported by scientific trials. As a result, it is becoming more important for manufacturers to be able to differentiate their products and substantiate the claims they make.

The research

ISP undertook extensive work focussing on quantifying the effectiveness of skin care products by testing them on the skin of human panellists. They used a Texture Analyser to measure the tightness of the skin both before and after the application of selected treatments.

The outcome

Their studies have shown the potential of texture analysis instrumentation in testing the efficacy of skin care products and substantiating skin tightening claims.

Estée Lauder is a pioneer and global leader in the cosmetics and skincare industry. They aim to delight consumers with transformative products and experiences, inspiring them to express their individual beauty. Infused throughout the organisation is a passion for creativity and innovation — a desire to push the boundaries and invent the unexpected.

The challenge

Existing facial peel-off masks often include PVP or PVA, which can be uncomfortable, especially for consumers with sensitive skin. They are also difficult to remove. Many masks that are intended to be worn for extended periods, such as eight hours, are not transfer resistant. This can be true of overnight treatment masks where transfer of product to a pillow is likely.

The research

Estée Lauder used Texture Analysis in their patent application entitled 'Long Wear Skincare Compositions'. This patent disclosed specific combinations of acrylates/VA copolymer and acrylates copolymer in a cosmetically acceptable base or delivery vehicle. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to measure film properties.

The outcome

These compositions were useful as high shine colour cosmetic compositions that are flexible and resistant to water below about 43°C. The compositions wear well, are transfer, smudge and flake resistant, as well as oil resistant, making them very suitable as high shine, long wear cosmetics.

The London College of Fashion (LCF) is a global leader in fashion education. Home to courses such as MA Fashion Entrepreneurship and Innovation, BA (Hons) Fashion Marketing, and MSc Cosmetic Science, it is recognised for its development of responsible leaders and innovative thinkers.

The challenge

Staff and students at LCF have taken fashion research to the next level by LCF installing a TA.XTplus texture analyser, which is now playing a pivotal role in the college curriculum and a key part of students’ research.

The research

LCF praised Stable Micro Systems for its excellent technical support and the unique testing abilities of the instrument and its diverse attachments. Using fixtures such as the flat-ended cylinder probe, lipstick break rig and spreadability rig, future cosmetic scientists are able to perform a wide variety of tests, ranging from consistency of gels, creams, and lotions, to lipstick strength and the spreadability of cosmetic emollients. The acquisition of the Texture Analyser has given students the opportunity to learn a new range of investigative skills and gain a unique insight into materials analysis. Reproducible results allow students and staff to incorporate accurate scientific data into their assignments, enabling the creation of credible research projects that are published in journals worldwide. Thanks to the success of working with Stable Micro Systems’ Texture Analyser during her own post-doctoral research, LCF’s Head of Science, Dr. Danka Tamburic spearheaded the decision to purchase the instrument.

The outcome

“We wanted to expand our ability to analyse the physico-chemical characteristics of the cosmetic materials that are used so widely in the cosmetic and fashion industries,” explained Dr. Tamburic. “Having had such a good experience with Stable Micro Systems’ instrument during my work in previous institutions, it was the only option. We’re already looking forward to implementing more tests in the future.”

Chanel Beauty Perfumes is a luxury French fashion house founded by Coco Chanel in 1910. It focuses on women’s ready-to-wear clothes, luxury goods and accessories.

The challenge

Researchers from Chanel Beauty Perfumes, Beauty and Innovation Research, have been investigating the relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks. Although a consumer will buy a lipstick according to the colour and the make-up effect, they will only buy the same one again if they are attracted by the sensory nature of the product. Sensory properties such as slipperiness, smoothness, thickness of the coating, and a moisturising sensation are strategic criteria in repeating the purchase.

The research

Lipstick bending force was measured using a TA.XTplus Texture Analyser coupled with a Lipstick Cantilever Rig.

The outcome

The results of this study confirm the major role of the viscosity of oils and the wax used in the formula on the sensory and mechanical properties of the lipstick. It is therefore possible to modify the sensory properties, for example to adjust the shininess of a lipstick, without altering its mechanical resistance. This opens up opportunities for developing innovative sensory textures in short lead times.

Lubrizol Advanced Materials innovations aim to improve the performance of their customers’ products and enable valuable performance attributes across a wide range of impactful industries, including healthcare and medical, beauty, and home care.

The challenge

Researchers from Lubrizol investigated the prediction of lipstick sensory properties with lab tests using texture analysis. The goal of their work was to develop and use lab test methods to predict the sensory and performance properties of lipstick which are important to the success of a lipstick formulation.

The research

The researchers used a their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to perform tack tests on the samples.

The outcome

The emollient was found to have a significant effect on the sensory and performance properties of a lipstick, which can be predicted with the developed laboratory tests. The methods they developed may help to speed up the development and optimisation of future lipstick formulations. Read more

Along with five other schools, Le Havre University is a member of Normandy University, an association of universities and higher education institutions.

The challenge

Researchers from the University of Le Havre performed a study to investigate skinfeel, with the aim to investigate the possibility of predicting skinfeel properties of cosmetic creams by instrumentally measured parameters.

The research

They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to test eight skinfeel attributes in their oil-in-water emulsion based creams. They were characterised by sensory and instrumental analyses.

The outcome

Accurate definitions and strict evaluation procedures were defined. These attributes were Gloss, Integrity of Shape, Penetration Force, Compression Force, Stringiness, Difficulty of Spreading, Absorbency and Stickiness. As well as studying their rheology, an extensive texture analysis was investigated on creams using their Texture Analyser by applying conventional tests of penetration, compression, and extrusion as well as other tests specifically designed to be well-adapted to our sensory protocols. All in all, 80 textural parameters were collected on each cream.

Beiersdorf have been caring about skin since 1882. Throughout their history they have built trust by staying close to their consumers and developing innovative skin care brands that are tailored to their needs. They work as one global team, with one focus: making people feel good in their skin.

The challenge

Beiersdorf used Texture Analysis for their patent application outlining a shaving stick that does not have the usual disadvantages of similar products. For example, shaving sticks often feel hard on the skin, require rubbing for film formation, the product can block up razors and can also be difficult to rinse off the skin.

The research

They used their TA.XT2i Texture Analyser to perform penetration tests for sample hardness information.

The outcome

If the penetration force value was within certain limits, it was shown that the stick composition when rubbed on skin wetted with water is perceived as neither too hard nor too soft. Instead, the mass of the cosmetic stick composition is experienced as particularly creamy and pleasant. Surprisingly, the cosmetic stick composition in the preferred range of penetration force values can be transferred particularly easily to the skin to be shaved. It was found that such cosmetic stick compositions exhibit a particularly efficient deposition and swelling on short stubble having a length of up to about 2 mm.

P&G was founded over 180 years ago as a simple soap and candle company. Today, they are the world’s largest consumer goods company and home to iconic, trusted brands that make life a little bit easier in small but meaningful ways.

The challenge

P&G developed a patent based on 'Aptamers for Odour Control Applications', a need which still exists for aptamers that selectively bind to malodour molecules. These aptamers could be used to reduce the intensity of the undesirable smells in personal care compositions, such as antiperspirants and deodorants.

The research

They used their TA.XT2 Texture Analyser to measure sample hardness as a result of formulation changes to ensure end product performance and sensory expectations were not affected.

The outcome

In their patent, the use of FRELEX was demonstrated for the selection of aptamers against different malodour molecular targets and the use of such aptamers to reduce the intensity of the undesirable smells.

Croda are the name behind the high performance ingredients and technologies in some of the biggest, most successful brands in the world: creating, making and selling speciality chemicals that are relied on by industries and consumers everywhere.

The challenge

Croda used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to put hair tresses to the test. As an example, the effectiveness of personal care products on the physical characteristics of hair were assessed with the bending force of a hair bundle used as an indicator of softness. Different types of hair were tested, comparing results before and after the application of various hair treatments.

The research

For the test, the hair samples were divided into two bundles – one to undergo treatments, the second to be used as a control. An average bending force from a cycle of ten three-point-bend tests was calculated for each sample. This type of research helps Croda to reveal that oxidation following hair bleaching, as well as heightened environmental moisture levels, have a significant effect on measurable bending force, an indication of hair softness, in particular where damaged hair is concerned. It also demonstrates the efficacy of conditioner formulations containing new softening ingredients.

The outcome

This test has enabled manufacturers to carry out quick, objective and repeatable evaluation of hair softness, optimising their products’ performance and substantiating persuasive beauty claims.

L’Oréal specialise in all types of beauty. They have acquired unique expertise over 110 years allowing them to understand, in extreme detail, the desires and aspirations of consumers all around the world.

The challenge

The goals of many hair styling compositions are to hold or fix the hair in a particular shape, to impart or increase volume of the hair, and to smooth the hair, e.g. to decrease or eliminate the appearance of frizz. Drawbacks associated with current products for styling the hair include that the product is often sticky or tacky or produces a film that imparts a sticky feel, and styled hair that is stiff or crunchy (i.e. the film is hard and brittle resulting in a crunching feel or sound when the hair is touched), which is undesirable for most consumers. It has now been discovered that by providing a composition comprising at least two latex polymers (one of which being a film-forming polymer), it is possible to form a film on a substrate that has desirable properties, such as a clean, natural, or “invisible” feel, and a lack of stickiness. Such compositions may be useful in hair-styling applications where styling benefits such as natural look, curling or straightening, and styling hold are imparted to hair.

The research

L’Oreal filed a patent in which the researchers used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to perform mechanical tests on hair samples, cycling three point bend hair tress specimens to a given deformation and calculating the change in bending force from cycle number one to cycle number ten.

The outcome

L’Oreal successfully developed a set of tests to assess the flexure properties of their hair styling compositions.

BASF aim to combine economic success with environmental protection and social responsibility. The approximately 122,000 employees in the BASF Group work on contributing to the success of their customers in nearly all sectors and almost every country in the world. Their portfolio is organised into six segments: Chemicals, Materials, Industrial Solutions, Surface Technologies, Nutrition & Care and Agricultural Solutions.

The challenge

The excellent performance of today’s styling formulations is further optimised by the use of polymer combinations, especially in gel and wax formulations. Combinations of styling polymers and polymeric thickeners are used to achieve the right balance of rheology profile, setting performance and humidity resistance, without sacrificing sensory properties such as peaking, gel structure and clarity. Many of those formulations still contain old fashioned PVP-based polymers, acrylic-based polymers and Carbomer-based thickeners. Formulations with the new multifunctional performance polymer by BASF offer an opportunity to go the opposite way, reducing the complexity of styling gel and wax formulations by the use of only one polymer.

The research

BASF used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to develop a new polymer generation for hair styling, offering truly multifunctional performance.

The outcome

This polymer also has the potential to be used in combination with non-ionic, cationic and anionic polymers, to give the formulator the necessary flexibility to develop variants for differentiation of styling performance and level of hold.

Momentive’s global silicones business brings innovation to a wide range of industries, including automotive, electronics, personal care, consumer products, aerospace and building and construction, to name a few.

The challenge

Momentive Performance Materials Inc., a major manufacturer of silicones for the personal care sector, installed world-leading texture analysis technology to explore and substantiate the effectiveness of Silsoft Silk conditioning agent. Thanks to the TA.XTplus Texture Analyser, Momentive now has detailed convincing data showing the effectiveness of their conditioning agent in various shampoo and conditioner applications.

The research

The Texture Analyser was used to measure wet friction – an excellent indicator of hair damage – comparing the effects of different silicones on damaged hair samples. Momentive worked with Texture Technologies Corp (TTC), distributor of the TA.XTplus in the US, to develop standardised test protocols and measurement parameters that are now used by Momentive to hone the chemistry of its products and by its customers to hone their shampoo and conditioner formulations utilising Momentive’s products.

The outcome

“Objective, quantifiable test results like these are invaluable to Momentive,” said Anne Dussaud, senior scientist at Momentive. “They show us very clearly not only how effective our silicone polymers can be in their own right, but also compared to the other actives our customers can choose from. We use these tests primarily as an R&D tool, which guides our decisions about the selection of polymers or to collaborate with customers about optimising their formulations.”The wet friction assessments were complemented by wet and dry combing tests and human sensory panels, which gave a fully rounded view of the silicones’ efficacy. In addition to testing shampoo and conditioner performance, Momentive’s personal care lab deployed its texture analyser to measure the hardness of pressed powders and lubricant friction force.

There is huge potential for texture analysis in the personal care sector. This is a large and highly competitive market where proven claims on packaging and in advertising play a vital role in consumers’ purchasing decisions. So for manufacturers, knowing exactly how the ingredients they choose will improve the performance of their products is ideal. Human sensory panels are indispensable, but increasingly now, so is objective texture analysis.

WACKER is a technological leader in the chemical industry and manufactures products for all key global industries. It is active in the silicone, polymer, life sciences and polysilicon markets.

The challenge

Consumers have a need for quick and easy haircare solutions with long lasting, desirable effects. Along with cleaning and conditioning, the effects of shine and manageability are sought after.

The research

A patent filed by Wacker Metroark Chemicals PVT. Ltd. aimed to provide a styling solution with improved shine, easy manageability and alignment, and conditioning benefits. They used their TA.XTplus Texture Analyser to measure the friction and combing force of treated hair tresses.

The outcome

This measurement effectively measured a major aspect of hair manageability

Unilever is one of the world’s largest consumer goods companies, established over 100 years ago. They aim to meet everyday needs for nutrition, hygiene and personal care with brands that help people feel good, look good and get more out of life.

The challenge

Reducing the amount of water that is used in everyday tasks and activities, such as washing of hair and bodies, reduces the energy required to process and deliver it to homes, businesses and communities. This in turn helps to reduce pollution and conserve fuel resources. Reducing the amount of water that goes to waste at home helps protect the wildlife that lives in rivers and wetlands. Thus, hair treatment products that require reduced rinsing to remove from the hair not only save consumers’ time and effort but can also save ecosystems, energy and water.

The research

Unilever used their TA.XT2i Texture Analyser to measure the friction of hair swatches treated with different conditioners.

The outcome

This invention successfully outlined conditioners that enable less water to be used during use.