The role of texturising agents in formulating cosmetics

Scientist formulating cosmetic cream in a laboratory

In the world of cosmetics, texture plays a crucial role in consumer satisfaction and product performance. Texturising agents are key ingredients that help formulate products with desirable feel, spreadability, and stability. From lotions to foundations, these agents enhance the sensory attributes and effectiveness of cosmetic products. So let’s explore the types of texturising agents used in cosmetics, their functions, and how they contribute to product formulation.

What are texturising agents?

Texturising agents are ingredients added to cosmetic formulations to modify the texture, consistency, and overall feel of the product. They help create smooth, creamy, or gel-like consistencies that enhance application and user experience. These agents can be natural or synthetic and are used in various concentrations depending on the desired effect.

Types of texturising agents

1. Thickeners

Thickeners increase the consistency of cosmetic products, giving them a richer and more luxurious feel.

  • Carbomers: Synthetic polymers that provide thickening and suspending properties. They are commonly used in gels and creams to create a smooth texture.
  • Xanthan gum: A natural polysaccharide that thickens and stabilises emulsions. It’s used in lotions, creams, and serums to enhance viscosity/consistency and prevent separation.
  • Cellulose derivatives: Ingredients like hydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose are used to thicken water-based formulations, providing a non-sticky and pleasant texture.

2. Emulsifiers

Emulsifiers help blend water and oil phases in formulations, creating stable and homogenous products.

  • Lecithin: A natural emulsifier derived from soybeans or eggs, used in creams and lotions to improve texture and stability.
  • Polysorbates: Synthetic emulsifiers that help create stable emulsions in creams, lotions, and sprays, enhancing spreadability and feel.
  • Glyceryl Stearate: A common emulsifier that provides a creamy texture and enhances the moisturising properties of formulations.

3. Gelling agents

Gelling agents create gel-like textures, providing a unique sensory experience and improving product stability.

  • Agar: A natural gelling agent derived from seaweed, used in facial masks and gels to create a firm yet flexible texture.
  • Carrageenan: Another seaweed-derived gelling agent, often used in moisturising gels and lotions for its thickening properties.
  • Silica: Used to create gel textures in various products, silica provides a lightweight, smooth feel and improves the stability of formulations.

4. Stabilisers

Stabilisers maintain the consistency and integrity of cosmetic products over time.

  • Pectin: A natural stabiliser used in gels and lotions to prevent separation and enhance texture.
  • Magnesium aluminum silicate: A mineral-based stabiliser that improves the texture and stability of creams and lotions.
  • Behenyl Alcohol: A fatty alcohol that acts as a stabiliser and thickener, providing a creamy texture and improving the stability of emulsions.

Typical ways a Texture Analyser is employed when formulating with texturising agents

A Texture Analyser is an invaluable tool when formulating cosmetic products with texturising agents, as it quantifies key physical attributes like firmness, consistency, spreadability, and adhesion. These measurements provide objective insight into how a formulation will feel and perform on the skin, allowing formulators to fine-tune ingredient concentrations, optimise sensory characteristics, and ensure consistency across batches. By simulating real-world consumer interactions—such as squeezing a cream or spreading a gel—the Texture Analyser helps bridge the gap between lab performance and user experience, streamlining development of products that feel luxurious and function effectively.

Typical test using a Back Extrusion Rig
Typical test using a Forward Extrusion Rig
Typical gel penetration test
Typical test using a Spreadability Rig
Typical test using a Sachet/Tube Exrusion Rig

Functions of texturising agents

  • Enhancing sensory experience - Texturising agents improve the feel of cosmetic products, making them more pleasant to apply. A smooth, creamy texture enhances user satisfaction and can influence the perception of product efficacy.
  • Improving spreadability - Good spreadability ensures that the product can be applied evenly and easily on the skin, enhancing the performance and appearance of cosmetics.
  • Stabilising formulations - Stabilisers prevent the separation of ingredients, ensuring that the product remains consistent and effective throughout its shelf life.
  • Controlling viscosity - Adjusting the viscosity of formulations helps create products that are easy to handle and apply, whether they are light serums or rich creams.

Conclusion

Texturising agents are essential components in the formulation of cosmetics, enhancing texture, stability, and overall user experience. By understanding the different types of texturising agents and their functions, cosmetic formulators can create products that not only meet consumer expectations but also stand out in a competitive market.